Thursday, August 22, 2013

San Sebastian

Have you spent hours, maybe even days, reading tripadvisor and yelp to prepare for your next trip? Foodie research can be stressful, especially when you realize that the restaurant you want to go to stopped taking reservations for your dates a month ago. Didn't you know to call 3 months ahead on the first monday of the month at 9am? There is a cure for this insanity of over-researched, super-planned dining, and it's called San Sebastian.

Here is how it works here. Walk off the beach, shake off the sand, and wonder into some pintxos bar, where you’ll be served every type of deliciousness: foie gras, iberico ham, smoked fish, veal cheeks, and wild mushrooms.  Did you like the ham, but don't see foie gras? No worries. Just walk over to the next bar and see what they have. This is the land of promiscuous eating, so no bar expects you to stay for more than one or two bites. During the whole week, I couldn't stop marveling at the prices. Plated dishes that would fetch $12-18 as appetizers in the USA were going for 4 euro!

My first evening in this utopia of food was spent on a pintxos tour with San Sebastian Food.  We went to 6 bars having 1 pintxo (sometimes 2) and 1 drink at each.  Goiz-Bargi, La Cepa, ViƱa, Munto, and Borda-Berri were traditional, and Zeruko was innovative (dry-ice, foam, etc).  This tour was perfect for San Sebastian newbies for many reasons.  The main attraction for me was overcoming the barrier of ordering.  Since many places didn't have English menus, most tourists were limited to pointing at the cold pintxos spread out at the bar.  That’s where our wonderful guide, Agus, was extremely helpful.  He ordered for us dishes from the hot menu that were the specialties of each bar.  Agus also entertained us with stories about the history of San Sebastian, and explained local eating customs and traditions.  

On my second day in San Sebastian I got an unofficial pintxos tour from my friend Raquel and her family, who are San Sebastian natives.  I also tried many of these places a second and third time to make sure they weren't one hit wonders. Here are the ones I’d go back to if I were in San Sebastian again.

Borda-Berri -- If I had to judge on food alone, Borda-Berri would win the contest in a city that provides some very stiff competition.  Veal cheeks, octopus a la plancha with quince, and pork rib were the best I’ve had in San Sebastian, and the best I’ve ever had anywhere in the world!  But be prepared to fight for your food if you come during busy hours.  No chairs or even bar stools here, and it can get packed.  
Veal Cheeks at Borda-Berri

Senra -- Not only can this place cook, but it offers chairs, friendly service, and English menus.  Don't miss the baby squid with chestnut puree, turbot with tomatoes and pistachios, and mushrooms with foie gras in warm aioli.
Turbot with Tomatoes and Pistachios at Senra

Zeruko -- if you want “molecular gastronomy” on a budget, Zeruko is a gem.  The variety is enormous, the food presentation is outstanding.  This is a place to come and feed your eyes, camera, and social media platform of your choice.  

After a few days of bar hopping, I was ready for a sit down meal. My one splurge was Akelare. The restaurant was on a mountain overlooking the Atlantic. Looking at this infinite expanse of blue velvet, I couldn't tell where the ocean ended and the sky began. I consider myself impervious to restaurants' decorative charms, but you'd have to be made of rock to be impervious to the view from Akelare. Pedro Subijana's food was deceptively simple. Each ingredient was manipulated but without attracting attention to the labor involved. I felt as if he doesn't want to detract from the majesty of the ocean in front of you. What he wants is for you to taste it.

Sea Garden: Prawn's sand, Mussel with "Shell", Sea Urchin Sponge, "Beach Pebbles", Seaweed "Coral"

Shrimp Flamed in a Pot

Plated Shrimp with green beans and green bean cream

Cuttlefish roller, rice krispies, mustard herbs

Pasta "carpaccio" with mushrooms and parmesan

hake and its kokotxa (chin) with oyster leaf and "mussel's beans"

Foam of the waves sauce for grouper


Roasted Suckling Pig

Egg and almond with the side of foaming coconut ice cream

Peaches and almond ice cream

After a week of this debauchery, I was starting to miss vegetables. Greens, particularly leafy ones seem to be forbidden on restaurant menus. For that, you'd have to go to France, but it's just a 30 minute drive and definitely worth a visit. I was surprised to find the food not as tasty as in San Sebastian, but it was a relief to eat something green, like the delightful pea soup at Zoco Moco in Saint-Jean-de-Luz. And don't forget to stop by Biarritz for its beauty, fantastic market, and oysters.

Monday, August 12, 2013

Project Planning in the Kitchen

The roast is filling the kitchen with tantalizing aromas.  You take a sip of wine and smile.  While you and your best friend are peeling potatoes you tell her about your recent trip to Tuscany.  It was magical.  Next year you should rent a villa and do it together.  The kids are reading quietly on the sofa in the living room.  Your husband is making lobster rolls.  Everyone is happy.

Time to wake up.  If this rosy picture never happened before in your household, you are not alone.  This has never happened in mine either.  Where does this beautiful dinner party happen?  In cooking magazines and on Food TV.

Many of you have asked me to teach meal planning and coordination both on my blog and in class.  I'd be happy to do that, but it's not a cooking class.  It's a project management class.  I haven't wrapped my head around a class like that yet, but a blog post is a good place to start.  A few warnings before we get started.   I can teach you how to serve a tasty meal without losing your sanity.  I can't teach you how to socialize, drink wine, and cook 5 things you've never made before.  That, my friends, is a pipe dream.  My menu suggests might not match your ambitions, and my techniques might make a dinner party seem like a software project.  If that idea doesn't make you cringe, then read on.

Project plan
Project plan should not live in your head.  It should live on your computer in a file.  Write down your menu.  Determine the dependencies.  Then write down what needs to happen in gory detail.  If kale needs to be washed and dried, it should be in your project plan.  If the roast needs to be salted 2 days before cooking, that should be in your project plan.  If the bathroom needs to be cleaned, that should be in your project plan too.  Here is a snippet from one of my project plans:
11am unload groceries
11:30am wash leafy greens (kale, swiss chard, parsley)
12:00pm chop kale and start braising (10 inch all-clad skillet)
12:15pm salt the roast

The benefits of this are so numerous, I don't know where to begin.
  • Identify weak points.  Are you creating an unnecessarily stressful situation by choosing dishes with 10 dependencies?  Are two of your dishes competing for the same pan (note that I mention which pan I plan to use for that kale).   Do you need the oven at 400F and 250F at the same time?  Are you dealing with a huge unknown -- how long does a 10 Lb roast take at 250F?  This will help you revise your menu and make it more manageable.
  • Free your brain during cooking.  Once I have a detailed project plan, I can relax, listen to music, and just zone out.  It's very zen like.  As soon as I am done with a task, I check the schedule, check the time to make sure I am on track, and do whatever the schedule says.  At least that's how it works during prep work (washing, chopping, etc).  Once I am on to the end game, no more zoning out, chatting, drinking, or listening to music.  It's time to concentrate!
  • Collect data you can use.  Comparing your project plan to reality will make your next project plan so much more accurate.  Say you thought that washing kale would take you 5 minutes.  But it actually took 20.  Now you know this for next time.  If you are putting a task on your project plan that you've never done before, say trim 5 artichokes, think of how long it could possibly take.  15 minutes?  20?  I suggest you double that and make it 40.  If you are done early, well, good for you.  It's always more encouraging to be ahead of schedule than behind.
  • Make realistic predictions.  Predicting big things is hard.  Predicting little things is easy.  How long does a meal for 10 take that includes a salad, home-made pasta, seared scallops, and chocolate mousse?  I don't know.  3-6 hours?  To tell you the truth, I really couldn't tell you without writing it all out.  How long does pasta dough take?  That's easy.  10 minutes to measure ingredients and mix together, plus 10 minutes of kneading.  That's 20 minutes.  
  • Improvise successfully.  You'd think that such careful planning would eliminate all improvisation and lock you into particular ingredients instead of choosing what's best at the market.  Not at all!  Say you were going to roast cauliflower and found beautiful beets instead.  They require about the same time and the same equipment, so you can swap them right in.  You were planning to sear scallops, but striped bass looked delightful.  No problem.  Why not sear that instead.  A quick glance at your plan will make you realize that you'll need a different type of pan (non-stick instead of stainless).  Is it available?  By thinking about things ahead, you can solve problems before they happen.
Know your abilities
The number one problem of both home cooks and many restaurants is cooking above their ability.  A dinner party is not the time to try something new.  I can't tell you how many e-mails I get before Christmas asking for help with Lobster aioli, 10 Lb prime rib, pasta dough, and artichoke peeling.  The right time to learn to do these things is a quiet weekend, and the right audience is your immediate family, not a party of 12.

Understand your social needs and obligations
Shaping nigiri, roasting a leg of lamb, or making a cheese souffle is something that I only cook for my immediate family.  They know to leave me alone, and take care of setting the table so that I can concentrate on cooking.  They also understand that dinner is ready when it's ready.  There is no whining about when are we going to eat, and there is no procrastination when I call everyone to the table.  My family understands very clearly that food is time sensitive.  Don't make souffles for people who can't get their ass to the table in 20 seconds.

When I cook for company, it's a whole other story.  Are your friends coming over that you haven't seen for 6 months?  They'll want to chat.  They'll want to drink.  They'll also want to pester you with "Can I help you with anything?"  
  • Be prepared to give people tasks, but don't count on this making your life easier.  A friend of mine jokes that when her father-in-law volunteers to pour orange juice, it takes more of her time than if she did it herself.  "Can you show me where your glasses are? Oh and where is ice?  How much should I pour?  Sorry I spilled, where are your towels.''  If you are going to ask them to slice bread, have it sitting on a cutting board with a knife and a basket nearby.  Try to anticipate what they'll need and have it ready.  
  • Plan menus that require minimum last minute attention and can be done completely ahead -- a spread of cold appetizers, a braise, a stew, duck confit, or a soup.  If something requires last minute attention, make it short -- sear scallops, or fish, or duck breasts.  Choose sides that can either be served cold (grain or bean salad) or can stay warm in the oven for a good long time (mashed parsnips or celery root) or zapped in a microwave.  Vegetable purees are perfect for that.
Prep first, cook next
It's hard to divide your attention between the sink, the counter, and the stove. Do all your chopping tasks together and all your cooking tasks together.  Of course, you might have something low maintenance happening on the stove, like onions sweating, while you are chopping other vegetables.  But don't try to sear fish and chop at the same time.

Optimize your equipment
I try to get as much mileage as I can out of each board.  I chop all the non sticky vegetables first, then onions, then garlic, and only then proteins (fish, meat, etc).  Then I can wash my board once.  If you reverse this order, you'll need to wash your board 3 times.  Think ahead.  If you need a sprinkle of parsley at the end, chop if before you contaminate your board with your protein.

Clean up as you go
Yeah, yeah.  Everyone knows that.  Why doesn't everyone do it?  Because it's not on their project plan.  If I see lots of dish dirtying activities on my project plan, I add a clean up activity.  I also create plenty of drying space.  It's hard to wash dishes if there is nowhere to put clean dishes.  I set up a few dish towels with cooling racks (some people call them cookie racks) on my counter, so that I can spread my clean dishes, and let them dry quickly.  Piling a mountain of dishes into your dish rack doesn't promote drying.

Plusses and Deltas
When I worked at the MathWorks, I picked up an amazing technique called "plusses and deltas."  I believe they learned it from Toyota.  After each project, you sit down and write down what went well (plusses) and what you want to change in the future (deltas).  Thinking about it, and beating yourself up doesn't help.  By next Thanksgiving you'll forget it all.  I do this after each cooking class, until it runs completely smoothly.  Whenever I introduce a new class, it normally takes 5 iterations of "plusses and deltas" before I get it just right.  So be patient.  Practice (particularly smart practice) makes perfect.

And on this note, I leave all my project plans and shopping lists behind because tomorrow I am heading to San Sebastian.  I will be cooking and eating, but once a year even I like leaving the planning to someone else.

Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Rolling out Pasta Dough (video)

You see Jamie Oliver and Mario Batali rolling out pasta dough on food TV and it looks like an 8 year old could do it.  Then you try it yourself and things go wrong.  The dough sticks, pasta machine wiggles, or you get shreds instead of sheets coming out of your rollers.  The good news is that an 8 year old can indeed make great pasta.  I've seen a number of them in my classes do that given the necessary information.

The dough
When you make pasta for hand shapes like cavatelli, orecchiette, trofie, and pici, you don't use eggs (or use very little).  When you make pasta for rolling into thin sheets, you use plenty of eggs and/or egg yolks.  This gives dough structure and richness even though it's so thin.  The procedure is the same as I demonstrate in the pasta dough video, but ingredients are different.  Here are the proportions for 2 types of dough you can use for rollers: basic and very rich.

Basic pasta dough
9 oz all-purpose flour (I use King Arthur)
2 tsp Diamond Crystal Kosher salt (or 1 tsp table salt)
5.3 oz liquid ingredients*
2 tsp olive oil

* To make "liquid ingredients" weigh 2 large eggs and add enough water to equal 5.3 oz total. When the air is very dry (like it is in Boston in winter), increase liquid ingredients to 5.5 oz.

Very rich pasta dough (adopted from the Frech Laundry Cookbook by Thomas Keller)
8 oz all-purpose flour (I use King Arthur)
2 tsp Diamond Crystal Kosher salt (or 1 tsp table salt)
6.3 oz liquid ingredients*
1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil

* To make "liquid ingredients" weigh 1 large egg, 1 Tbsp milk, and enough egg yolks to give you 6.3 oz total (roughly 6 yolks).  When the air is very dry (like it is in Boston in winter), increase liquid ingredients to 6.5 oz.

Rolling and Cutting into Ribbons
Now that you got your dough, here is how to roll it out and cut into ribbons.

YouTube Link: Rolling and Cutting Pasta Dough
More Videos: Helen's Kitchen Channel

FAQ about Rolling and Cutting

How do you clean out the pasta machine?
Whichever machine you use, don't wash it or wipe it with anything wet.  Just brush it out with a pastry brush.

My pasta dough is coming out stained.  Why?
When you first get your machine, you'll need to "clean it out."  This means feeding dough through the machine to remove excess oil (this oil helps the rollers roll smoothly).  This pasta will need to be thrown away.  Sorry about that.  I know it hurts to throw away pasta dough you worked so hard on.  But it's only the first time.

Can you store pasta after cutting into ribbons?
Yes, it can stay in the fridge in a closed container for 24 hours before using.

How thin should my pasta be?
Keep in mind that pasta expands when it cooks and you need to take that into account.  For ribbon pasta and regular ravioli, I roll to setting 6.  For very delicate tortellini or ravioli, I roll to 7.